Krakow
Wieliczka Salt Mines just outside Krakow with unique sculptures and settings of this 800-year old salt mine. There are chambers, chapels and even salt chandeliers, 135 m underground.
Salt was a valuable commodity, and without access to ocean salt, rock salt was an economic gold mine (or actually salt mine).
Much like coal mines, caverns could be excavated, but being much harder than coal, larger caverns would last a lifetime, and the walls could be carved into interesting tableaux.
Underground, not only were religious icons carved, but even the floors were carved into the semblance of tiles. Such is the hardness of the rock salt, that these floor patterns still exist, despite the passage of all the tourists.
The entrance:
First step is the lift. Descending quickly to over 130m, the lift is a cramped conveyance, with a narrow doorway.
There are many features underground, some created by the original miners themselves, some created later to highlight what life was like in the early days.
One such example is the methane burners. As with all underground mines, methane leaking is a problem, both in its toxicity, and its penchant for creating an explosive mixture. Some miners were tasked with lighting ignition flames to flare off the methane. Having worked in the gas industry, my reaction was good luck, but leave me off the roster.
Movimg all the tonnes of rock salt to the service, small ponies were employed, Despite the apparent cruelty, these animals were tenderly cared for, and were considered a valuable resouce.
As with any mine, water infiltration is an issue, and in Rock salt, which is obviously soluble in water, methods needed to be developed to counter this problem. The most basic method was manually powered pumps:
Living the lifestyle underground, it is no wonder many of the carvings are of a religious nature.
The acoustics in the caverns are perfect for gospel music, but I am not sure if it was Kathryn’s or Hilary’s singing that caused the mass exodus:
As an example of the way the salt crystalises out on all the surfaces undergound, consider this:
The stability of the caverns in the rock salt, as it is really a form of rock, allows for the creation of all sorts of function rooms. For example this room, which has multiple functioms, including dining, and music recitals,
The old time mining methods have been superceded by more modern ones.
Around Krakow
Next stop was Schindler’s Factory – the actual factory behind Schindler’s List, and used in the movie based on the book. On the facade, there are photos of the people he saved.
Around the corners, are remnants of the walls of the Jewish ghetto. Despite the modern interpretation of slums, a ghetto is really simply an area to which minorities are segregated and restricted.
During the holocaust, Jews listed for the concentration camps were forced to stand in the square, now named Heroes Square, for up to three days – no sitting, no food, no toilet facilities. A memorial of empty chairs was created to signify this atrocity.
Sitting next to the Vistula (Wisla) river is Wawel Hill, dominated by a complex that includes the Royal Castle and Cathedral. The buildings in the complex developed over many centuries. The steep slopes and sheer walls show why it was so easily defended.
Main Market Square in Krakow
Since medieval times, the main market square has been home to the Cloth Market. No longer really a cloth market, it is now mainly a tourist trap, with lots of souveneir stalls. However I did find a nice cafe for lunch and a wine, and spent a pleasant time watching the passing parade.
St Mary’s Church
Bordering the corner of the square is St Mary’s church. In a single word – stunning – so hard to pick which photos to add.
The Bugler
What story of Krakow would be complete without the Tale of the Bugler. Commemorated on the hour, every hour.
The bugler’s job was to signal the opening and closing of the gate, as well as warn of approaching enemies. In 1240 he noticed the Tartar army approaching, and while sounding the alarm, was shot in the throat by a Tartar arrow. His warming, however, was sufficient to warn the citizens, and defend the city. (My cynical mind thinks if they were close enough to shoot him at the top of the tower, too little, too late – but a great story)
